September 10, 2024

Iona Abbey and Nunnery (and stones)

Strong winds and rain throughout the night gave way to a beautiful sunrise behind dark clouds over Mull visible from my room here at the B&B.  After breakfast it was time to walk over to the Iona nunnery and abbey.  Iona is a holy isle described as the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland. Founded by St. Columba in AD 563 the monastery became one of the most influential and significant in the British Isles. It’s thought that the world famous Book of Kells was made here, along with other great works of art. Somerled, ancestor of the MacDonald Lords of the Isles, became patron of Iona in the mid-12th century. While ‘King of the Isles’, he built St Oran’s Chapel as a family burial place. Some believe Somerled himself was buried at Iona, possibly in St. Oran’s Chapel. (Other theories have him buried at Sadell Abbey)

I am completely transfixed by the nunnery which was founded by Somerled’s son Reginald in 1200 who installed his sister, Bethoc, as its first prioress. It is the most complete nunnery complex to survive in Scotland and was one of only two Augustinian Orders in the country.  While the rest of the abbey buildings have been restored the Iona Nunnery , made derelict during the Reformation, has not. It’s ethereal beauty and peaceful surroundings make it a perfect place for contemplation and reflection.  I was surprised at its size and the number of rooms it contained – all of which are now mere outlines in granite bordered by intricate stone walls.  More info at Historic Environment Scotland

After the nunnery it was time to hike out to St. Columba’s Bay in search of green stones for the jewelry project. As I set out it was still sunny, though the wind had not abated and at times unleashed gusts that pushed me sideways as I walked. The hike to the bay was a mile, mostly uphill, and well worth the effort.  Not only was the scene before me magnificent but I found the stones I wanted as well! In total I managed over six miles on foot today and inhaled the essence of Iona while sensing its spiritual pull. This is a place to revisit.

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