They say third time is the charm and on my 3rd visit to Dunstaffnage Castle the sun came out and illuminated the castle in perfect light. This is one of my favorite castles and for this visit I gave it more time than usual. Sitting on an immense rock overlooking the Firth of Lorn, Dunstaffnage is one of the oldest stone castles in Scotland and the former stronghold of the MacDougalls. Visiting historic sites gives you a sense of what life must have been like centuries ago. The castle, although it sits in an industrial and residential area now, is still hidden in a thick forest and thus comes into view gradually as you walk up the road and into the clearing. It was built by Duncan McaDougall, known as the King of the Isles, around 1220 at the peak of the battle between Scotland and Norway for control of the Hebrides. During the Wars of Independence it was besieged by Robert the Bruce. The castle offers a stunning example of 13th century architecture and its formidable stone curtain still inspires awe in visitors.
A short walk from the castle leads to a little chapel in the woods. There is an aura surrounding this ancient site that envelops the visitor and compels one to stop and reflect. It is a peaceful setting which belies the tragedy that occurred there in 1462. Historic Environment Scotland relays the tale. “On the afternoon of 20th December 1462, a bridal party walked down the short path from Dunstaffnage Castle to a little chapel in the woods.It was to be a joyful occasion: Sir John Stewart, 3rd Lord of Lorn and a widower, was marrying his mistress, a MacLaren of Ardvech. The couple already had a son, Dugald, and their marriage would seal his inheritance.But before the groom could even enter the church, disaster struck. A vengeful relative, the kind you don’t want to see at any wedding, had been lying in wait. His name was Alan MacCoul, and he was hell-bent on murder. He and his men ambushed the wedding party and stabbed the groom several times. Struggling for breath, Sir John was carried into the church where he had just strength enough to make his wedding vows before he died.”
